Pillar Roses
Study the surroundings
A pillar rose should always look as if it belonged to its surroundings. A corner
formed by close-cut evergreen trees forms an excellent background, and supplies a much needed shelter to the rose in its earlier growth.
The pillar rose must stand well away from the evergreen trees, for shelter does not of necessity mean shade, and the roots must never be
allowed to intermingle.
A hole must be dug in the same way as described in the Planting Roses section and when in position the rose tree must be secured firmly to a stick. You need not
begin with an iron stake ten feet high, though, if all goes well, that is what it will ultimately require. A strong bamboo cane of a good thickness will answer every purpose for the first three or four years, and
looks less unsightly.
How to prune pillar roses
In pruning pillar roses be sure to keep several of the shoots quite short, even when the
tree has grown to its full height, as it is only in this way that flowers can be produced all the way down.
Nothing looks worse than six feet of bare stem and only a crown of flowers at the
top. Each shoot must be well tied in, or the wind is very liable to catch
them. Tarred twine is the best material, as it lasts longer than bass or ordinary
string. It is advisable to walk round the tree several times while training it up, or a
one-sided effect will be obtained.
Suitable pillar roses:
Zephirine
Drouhin
Aloha
Don
Juan
Van
Fleet
Wichurana
Rambler
Dublin Bay
Crimson
Pillar
Royal Gold
Unsuitable sorts:
Some roses that gardeners try as pillars are not suited in that position, and a
beginning should not be made with them.
Such are Perle des Jardins, Marechal Niel, Fortune’s Yellow, Niphetos, and others. These
require at least shelter of a wall, and in many cases are best under glass. It is
often the wrong choice rather than wrong cultivation which makes for failure, and so discourages the gardener.
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